Rou Gui Cha (premium) • 肉桂茶

After first sampling Rou Gui cha at Kkik Da Geo, I was so taken by it that I dreamed that I'd returned to the tea shop with a giant tortuous and loaded its back with as much Rou Gui cha as it could carry (it had a traditional Korean "jigae", an wooden A-frame usually used for carrying wood on your back, customized to fit its shell), then slowly lead it out the door.

Repeating the dream to Prof Ahn, he laughed, then told me that the one I'd tried was medium quality and they'd just received a shipment of top grade Rou Gui cha. If the medium grade Rou Gui was already one of the most expensive teas I'd ever bought ($1.50/g), I figured there would be no way I'd be able to buy the premium one, but to my delight they were packaged in 7 gram portions. It still works out to $2/g, but $14 didn't hurt.

I was very curious how much of a difference there could be between the two grades. The medium grade was already one of the best teas I'd ever had. As I mentioned previously, rou gui is the Chinese word for dried cinnamon bark, and the tea is named after it because the aroma and tingling sensation in your mouth and throat are so similar and the medium grade leaves had this exact sensation.

Intending to make this small sample last as long as possible, I prepared my 25ml Biao Zhun pot that I usually only use for Da Hong Pao. While the pot heated, I admired the leaves. The first thing I noticed is that they were much lighter, with several green and rusty-brown leaves. They reminded me a bit of Phoenix dancong leaves. Transferring them into the warm pot, a beautiful herbal and flower aroma arose which only intensified with a quick rinse. Carefully steeping the leaves for 15 seconds, I took a long whiff of the tea. Already, my mind was blown. A small sip and it instantly knocked all other teas from my mind. There was no other I've had that could compare on any level. I could divide its characteristics into different categories and make isolated comparisons to other teas, but as a whole it stands alone in my experience. The rich, bold sweetness and floral, perfumy bitterness wove themselves together into a seductive, realm-melting spell. It is by far the most amazing tea experience I've ever had.

From what I can tell, the medium grade Rou Gui was produced using the traditional method of a medium oxidization and a heavy roast, whereas these leaves where produced using a newer method of high oxidization and a lighter roast, bring out the spectacular floral aroma.

Bai Mu Dan (White Peony Tea) • 白牡丹茶

Zhenghe Bai Mudan Cha (White Peony Tea) • 政和 白牡丹茶
Zhènghé Bái mǔdān chá

Bai Mudan, White Peony Tea, is a famous white tea originating from Fujian province during the 1870's, and where the highest quality continues to be produced. It was the first tea of it's kind.
Named after the White Peony flower, China's national flower, more likely as a charming name than for any resemblance, but the scent is said to be similar, as the tea is known for its floral character. There are two types of Bai Mudan, Zhenghe and Fuding. Zhenghe is fermented a little longer and produces a fuller, stronger tasting tea, compared with brighter and greener Fuding leaves.

Bai Mudan is considered the second highest grade white tea, after Bai Hao Yin Zhen (Silver Needle, 白毫銀針). Where Silver Needle is produced entirely of buds, White Peony includes the first leaf. The added leaves result in a much fuller flavour, while still maintaining a gentle, soft, sweetness. Its second grade status does not mean it's not of equal quality, but subtlety rules in Chinese tea and Silver Needle is the more subtle of the two. That said, many prefer the stronger flavour of White Peony.

A high-quality Bai Mudan has a large proportion of long, furry buds, like those of Silver Needle, dispersed with small, withered leaves, some bright-green, others lightly or deeply fermented brown. It can be steeped with a range of temperatures. Many recommend very hot but I prefer 80ºC, where its sweetness is more pronounced. The tight buds need more time to open than other teas, so I steep them more than twice as long as I usually would with green or oolong teas. I've also had great results stepping it quite hot then letting it cool before drinking.

Though it's called "white" tea, the liquor is a bright, clear ocher. It's quality is proven by the large amount of hairs floating in the cup. Though I feel like I'm betraying my zisha pots, lately, I've taken to using a glass gongfu pot for my white and green teas so that I can watch the leaves dance and the tea hairs sparkle in the sunlight. The glass also transmits an unaltered flavour, which is ideal for white and green teas.

Like Silver Needle, there is a sweet, hay-like taste, but after letting your tongue soak for a few seconds, surprisingly strong floral and fruit taste emerges. It's for this that many prefer White Peony to Silver Needle, it has more taste.

Traditional Chinese knowledge defines white tea as having a cooling effect on the body. It makes it useful for balancing body heat during the summer. It is also antibacterial, making it a good body cleansing tea. Because of white tea's simple processing technique, the best are withered and dried in the sun then lightly oxidized, nothing more, it retains even more of its beneficial compounds than other types of tea.

Silver Needle White Tea • 白毫銀針

Silver Needle White Tea (Bai Hao Yin Zhen) • 白毫銀針

I hadn't purchased Silver Needle White Tea since my very early days of Chinese tea exploration, when any decent cup of tea I brewed at home was mere fluke and not a frequent happening. So, I had little memory of Silver Needle until I made this purchase a few months ago.

The moment I opened the package, a sweet, light syrupy fragrance came wafting up and my senses began to tingle with anticipation. 

Putting three heaping scoops into the tea funnel to admire, I'm amused by the plump, fuzzy buds. I imagine the Ewok witch doctor must keep a small jar of these buds stashed amongst his other herbs. Another name for this tea is White Hair Silver Needle, and it is the white hairs that truly give it its silvery look. 

The tea is produced in the Fu Ding region of Fujian Province, from where it first originated. Daniel, from the Chinese Teashop, claims that it is the highest grade, and judging by the appearance and scent of the leaves, I already have no doubt.

Placing the leaves in a heated pot, the smell intensifies as the leaves are warmed. The contract of the leaves against the zisha clay is quite stunning. The smell is like no other tea, as it carried my memory back to childhood and the scent of fleshly bailed hay in a hot, humid barn.

As you'd imagine from its name, White Tea produces a very light liquor, but there is no subtlety about its smell, just like the initial scent of the packaged leaves. The first sip is joy; a soft, flowery sweetness mixed with the deeper syrupy dried hay, like I'd sensed in the leaves. Imagine sucking on a straw of the sweetest smelling hay ever cut and you might be a sniff in the right direction.

If you think its dishonouring the tea to be comparing it to hay, it's not. First, anyone who is familiar with the sweat smell of hay will understand. Second, it's not uncommon to describe tea as 'grassy'. And third, White Tea's production method is very similar to hay. The first buds of spring are picked, then left in shallow baskets to whither in the sun. Though there is slight oxidation, there is no roasting or fermenting of the leaves. 

After just a single steep, the silver colour disappears and rich, golden-green buds glow form the pot. Though the next steep has lost a slight bit of the sweetness, the syrupy mouth feel remains. As one good steep deserves another, I sip cup after cup, until the tea-drunk sets in and if I drink anymore, I'll be too shaky to hole a cup steady.

White Tea is best steeped with water no hotter than 80ºC (176ºF) to fully appreciate  the sweetness of the tea. I tend to steep my tea with very short initial three steeps, 10-15 seconds, then slowly increase the time with each further steep, preferring the subtleties of quick steeps.

Purchased from The Chinese Teashop: Silver Needle White Tea (Bai Hao Yin Zhen)